Kitchen Remodeling in Stevensville, Michigan
Open-concept ranch transformations and family-proof designs for suburban living
WTS II Contracting is a licensed Michigan residential builder specializing in kitchen remodeling throughout Stevensville, with comprehensive slab-on-grade plumbing modification expertise including concrete saw-cutting, trench excavation, drain line relocation, and proper backfill procedures that enable island sink installations on solid concrete foundations common in 1970s-1990s ranch subdivisions, combined with extensive experience navigating Lincoln Charter Township building codes including electrical outlet spacing requirements, island venting specifications, and make-up air calculations for high-CFM range hoods. Our family hub transformation approach—featuring kid-proof quartz countertops that resist staining from juice spills and homework projects, waterproof luxury vinyl plank flooring providing warmth on cold slab foundations, and open-concept layouts removing U-shaped peninsulas to create central islands improving traffic flow—delivers durable modern kitchens engineered specifically for Stevensville's busy suburban families.
Stevensville, MI Kitchen Specs
| Specification |
Details |
| Permit Jurisdiction |
Lincoln Charter Township (most common) OR Village of Stevensville |
| Housing Stock Era |
1970s–1990s ranch homes (suburban subdivisions) |
| Foundation Type |
Slab-on-grade (most common) or crawlspace—critical for plumbing cost estimates |
| Design Trend |
Large islands with seating, open-concept to living room, family-focused layouts |
| Material Priority |
Durability for active families—stain-proof counters, waterproof flooring |
| Typical Timeline |
5–8 weeks (includes concrete work for slab plumbing, open-concept modifications) |
Renovating Stevensville Ranch Kitchens
The "Slab" Obstacle: Plumbing Modifications on Concrete Foundations
Stevensville's suburban subdivisions built 1970s-1990s predominantly feature slab-on-grade construction where plumbing lines are cast into 4-6 inches of concrete—making kitchen island additions or sink relocations exponentially more complex and expensive than homes with accessible crawlspaces or basements. This construction method requires concrete cutting, excavation, and careful restoration.
The slab foundation plumbing challenge:
- Embedded drain lines: Kitchen drains cast into concrete during original construction
- Fixed locations: Sinks can only be where original drains were placed
- Island impossibility: Original ranches have no drain provisions in floor center—islands had no sinks
- Access limitation: Cannot simply "run new pipes" like in basement/crawlspace homes
- Structural concern: Concrete slab provides structural support—cutting must be done properly
What homeowners want versus what slab foundations provide:
- Homeowner desire: Central island with prep sink—modern kitchen standard
- Slab reality: Original drain at wall 8-12 feet from island location
- Required solution: Cut concrete, trench new drain line, connect to existing system
- Cost impact: $3,000-5,000 additional versus $300-600 in crawlspace homes
WTS II Contracting's slab plumbing modification process:
Phase 1: Planning and Existing System Mapping
- Locate existing drain lines—use as-built plans or ground-penetrating radar if necessary
- Identify main drain stack location and direction of flow
- Plan new drain route from island to existing system
- Determine connection point—typically at cleanout or main line
- Calculate fall required—1/4 inch per foot minimum slope for proper drainage
Phase 2: Concrete Cutting
- Layout marking: Chalk line showing trench path from island to connection point
- Concrete saw: Diamond blade wet-cutting saw—12-18 inch wide trench
- Depth: Cut 6-8 inches deep—below existing drain depth to maintain slope
- Dust control: Wet cutting minimizes concrete dust in home
- Safety: Mark electrical and gas lines before cutting—avoid utility strikes
Phase 3: Excavation and Drain Installation
- Jackhammer broken concrete from trench
- Excavate soil beneath slab—create proper depth for drain line
- Install 2-inch ABS or PVC drain line from island to existing system
- Maintain 1/4 inch per foot minimum slope—verify with level
- Connect to existing drain with proper fittings—fernco coupling or ABS cement
- Venting provision: Install vent connection for island (loop vent or AAV location)
Phase 4: Inspection and Testing
- Building inspector examines drain installation before backfill
- Water test—run water through new drain verifying flow and no leaks
- Inspector approves slope, connection methods, and venting provision
- Critical timing: Cannot backfill until inspection passes
Phase 5: Backfill and Restoration
- Backfill trench with crushed stone or sand—properly compacted in lifts
- Pour new concrete over trench—minimum 4 inches thick matching original slab
- Smooth finish to match existing floor texture
- Cure concrete 24-48 hours before flooring installation
- New flooring (typically LVP) covers entire kitchen—hides concrete patch
Cost Breakdown for Slab Plumbing Modifications:
- Island sink addition (8-12 foot run): $3,000-5,000 total
- Includes: Concrete cutting ($800-1,200), excavation and drain installation ($1,200-2,000), inspection ($150-250), backfill and concrete restoration ($800-1,500)
- Versus crawlspace homes: Same work costs $300-600—no concrete cutting required
- Why homeowners accept cost: Central island with sink is standard modern kitchen feature—worth investment for functionality and resale value
Alternative Solutions (Lower Cost):
- Island without sink: Eliminates plumbing cost—island still provides seating and storage
- Sink at original location: Design layout keeping sink at wall where drain exists
- Above-slab drainage: Build raised platform for island—drains run exposed then into wall (unattractive but functional)
Truss Uplift: Roof Structure and Open-Concept Modifications
Stevensville ranch homes predominantly use prefabricated roof truss systems where every wall location was calculated during original design—removing walls to create open concepts requires structural analysis to prevent roof sagging and truss damage. Unlike traditional rafter-framed homes, truss systems distribute loads in complex ways making wall removal more complicated.
The roof truss structural concern:
- Engineered system: Roof trusses designed as complete unit—each member critical
- Load distribution: Weight transfers through truss webs to bearing walls
- Interior bearing walls: Trusses often bear on walls 10-12 feet from exterior
- Removal consequences: Eliminating bearing wall causes truss deflection and possible failure
- Span limitations: Trusses designed for specific spans—exceeding design causes sag
The homeowner's open-concept desire:
- Remove wall between kitchen and living room—create spacious family area
- Typical wall removal span: 12-20 feet across former wall location
- Want seamless ceiling—no visible structural elements
- Modern aesthetic—clean lines without exposed beams
WTS II Contracting's truss-compatible wall removal approach:
Step 1: Structural Analysis
- Examine attic to identify truss configuration and bearing points
- Determine if wall is load-bearing—look for trusses bearing on wall top plate
- Measure span that beam must cover after wall removal
- Calculate loads—roof weight, snow load (Michigan requires 40-50 PSF), ceiling materials
- Professional engineer involvement if span exceeds 16 feet or complex loading
Step 2: Flush-Mount Beam Installation (Most Common Solution)
- LVL beam selection: Laminated veneer lumber sized for span and load
- Typical sizing: 3.5" x 11.25" to 14" depth for 12-16 foot spans
- Flush installation: Beam installed in ceiling plane—recesses into ceiling joists/truss chords
- Connection method: Simpson joist hangers secure trusses to beam
- Visual result: Beam hidden by drywall—creates seamless ceiling appearance
Step 3: Temporary Support Installation
- Build temporary walls both sides of wall to be removed
- Support carries roof load during beam installation
- Critical safety measure—never remove bearing wall without temps in place
- Temps remain until permanent beam fully installed and secured
Step 4: Wall Removal and Beam Installation
- Remove drywall exposing wall framing
- Cut pocket into ceiling to recess beam—depth matches beam height
- Lift beam into position—typically requires 4-6 workers or mechanical lift
- Beam bears on existing exterior walls or posts at ends
- Install joist hangers connecting trusses to beam
- Through-bolt beam plies if doubled or tripled
- Remove temporary supports after beam secured
Step 5: Ceiling Finishing
- Install drywall boxing beam—creates flush ceiling plane
- Tape, mud, and texture matching existing ceiling
- Paint entire ceiling for uniform appearance
- No visible indication of structural work—seamless open concept achieved
Cost for Truss-Home Open Concept:
- 12-14 foot span: $4,000-6,500 (includes engineering, beam, installation, finish)
- 16-18 foot span: $6,000-9,000 (larger beam, possibly steel, PE involvement)
- Premium over non-load-bearing removal: $3,500-5,000 (non-bearing wall $500-1,500)
The "Galley to Open" Shift: Ranch Layout Transformation
Stevensville's 1980s-1990s ranch homes feature U-shaped kitchen layouts with protruding peninsulas that create cramped work triangles and block traffic flow between kitchen and living areas—the most common transformation request is removing peninsula and installing central island.
The original U-shaped kitchen problems:
- Peninsula obstruction: Counter jutting into room blocks circulation
- Closed off feeling: Cook isolated from family activities in adjacent rooms
- Wasted space: Dead zones behind peninsula unusable for circulation
- Limited seating: Bar stools on one side only—awkward family interaction
- Traffic bottlenecks: Single entry/exit point creates congestion
The modern island-centered layout advantages:
- Central work zone: Island becomes primary prep area—accessible from all sides
- Improved circulation: Traffic flows around island rather than dead-ending at peninsula
- Family connection: Cook faces into living room—maintains conversation and supervision
- Flexible seating: Island accommodates 3-4 bar stools—all facing living area
- Storage increase: Island adds cabinet storage without sacrificing wall cabinets
WTS II Contracting's galley-to-island transformation process:
Layout Planning:
- Measure existing kitchen dimensions and traffic patterns
- Design island size optimizing work triangle while maintaining clearances
- Minimum clearances: 42-48 inches between island and perimeter cabinets
- Island sizing: Typically 3x6 to 4x8 feet for Stevensville ranch kitchens
- Plan appliance locations—maintain refrigerator/sink/range triangle under 26 feet total
Peninsula Removal:
- Demo existing peninsula cabinets and countertop
- Remove electrical outlets from peninsula—relocate to island location
- Patch flooring where peninsula was located—often reveals older flooring underneath
- Install new flooring across entire kitchen creating uniform surface
Island Installation:
- Position island optimizing work triangle and traffic flow
- Install base cabinets—typically 24" deep versus 12" for peninsula
- Add plumbing for sink if desired (requires slab cutting in most Stevensville homes)
- Install electrical—outlets on sides or ends, not on top surface
- Install countertop—overhang on seating side provides knee space
Open Wall Treatment (If Removing Wall):
- Remove wall between kitchen and living room if desired
- Install beam if load-bearing (see truss section above)
- Create wide opening—typically 8-12 feet—frames island view from living room
- Add decorative columns or half-walls if full opening too exposed
Cost for Galley-to-Island Transformation:
- Peninsula removal + new island (no sink): $8,000-15,000
- Includes: Demo, island cabinetry, countertop, electrical, flooring patch
- Add island sink (slab home): Additional $3,000-5,000 for concrete work
- Add open wall (load-bearing): Additional $4,000-8,000 for beam installation
- Total transformation: $15,000-28,000 for complete galley-to-open conversion
Common Code Violations in Lincoln Township
Island Venting: Preventing Sewer Gas with Proper Drain Venting
Lincoln Charter Township building inspectors strictly enforce plumbing vent requirements for island sinks—drains must be vented to prevent trap siphoning that allows sewer gas infiltration into kitchens. Standard vertical vent stacks impossible on islands located away from walls, requiring specialized venting techniques.
Why island drains require special venting:
- Standard sink venting: Drain connects to vent stack within 5-6 feet—vent extends up through wall and roof
- Island location: Sink 4-8 feet from any wall—cannot run vertical vent through floor
- Code requirement: Michigan Plumbing Code requires every drain vented to atmosphere
- Trap seal protection: Vent equalizes pressure preventing water from being sucked out of trap
The consequences of unvented island drains:
- Slow drainage: Water drains sluggishly due to negative pressure
- Gurgling sounds: Air being pulled through trap creates noise during drainage
- Trap siphoning: Water level in trap drops below outlet—breaks seal
- Sewer gas entry: Methane and hydrogen sulfide enter kitchen through broken trap seal
- Health hazard: Sewer gas contains harmful bacteria and toxic compounds
- Failed inspection: Building inspector red-tags improper venting—work cannot proceed
WTS II Contracting's code-compliant island venting solutions:
Method 1: Loop Vent (Traditional Code-Compliant)
- Drain line loops up above flood rim of sink before dropping to floor
- Loop extends up within island cabinet to height above sink level
- After looping, drain drops down through floor (or through slab trench)
- Connects to horizontal drain line under floor/in slab
- Separate vent portion rises from horizontal drain to roof stack
- Advantages: Fully code-compliant everywhere, no special fittings, inspector approved
- Disadvantages: Requires cabinet space for loop—reduces storage under sink
- Cost: $400-800 for loop vent installation
Method 2: Air Admittance Valve (AAV) - Lincoln Township Approved
- Mechanical one-way valve allows air into drain but prevents gas escape
- Mounts inside island cabinet—no roof penetration required
- Studor Mini-Vent or equivalent—industry standard product
- Must be accessible for maintenance—cannot be sealed inside walls
- Lincoln Township approves AAVs when properly installed
- Advantages: Simple installation, maximizes under-sink storage, lower cost
- Disadvantages: Mechanical valve can fail after 10-15 years requiring replacement
- Cost: $150-300 for AAV installation
Inspector Verification Points:
- Vent must extend above sink flood rim level before dropping
- AAV must be mounted minimum 4 inches above horizontal drain
- AAV must remain accessible—cannot be buried in walls or sealed spaces
- Proper trap depth maintained—outlet 6-18 inches below flood rim
- Inspector examines venting before closing walls or cabinets
Electrical Spacing: Island Outlet Requirements
Lincoln Township inspectors enforce NEC 2023 outlet spacing requirements on kitchen islands—first outlet required within 12 inches of counter edge, additional outlets for larger islands, GFCI protection mandatory. Standard countertop-mounted outlets ruin clean island aesthetics, requiring creative installation solutions.
The island electrical code requirements:
- NEC 210.52(C)(3): Island countertops require one receptacle for first 9 square feet
- Additional outlets: One more receptacle for each additional 18 square feet
- Spacing: Outlets positioned to ensure no point along counter more than 24 inches from outlet
- GFCI protection: All island outlets must have ground-fault protection
- Location: Outlets must be on island—cannot substitute wall outlets serving island
The aesthetic challenge:
- Standard outlet placement: Surface-mounted on island side or end—disrupts clean lines
- Waterfall edge conflict: Countertop extends to floor—no sides for outlet mounting
- Homeowner preference: Clean minimalist island without visible outlets
- Code requirement: Outlets must be present and accessible—cannot skip for aesthetics
WTS II Contracting's code-compliant aesthetic solutions:
Solution 1: Pop-Up Countertop Outlets (Most Popular)
- Outlet module recessed into countertop—flush when closed
- Press button—outlet pops up providing two receptacles and optional USB ports
- Push down to close—returns to flush position
- Available finishes: Stainless steel, bronze, black—matches hardware
- Installation: Requires hole cut in countertop, outlet box mounted in cabinet below
- GFCI protection: Pop-up connected to GFCI breaker at panel
- Cost: $150-350 per pop-up unit depending on finish and features
- Meets code: Inspector-approved—provides required island receptacles
Solution 2: Side-Mount Outlets (Waterfall Compatible)
- Mount outlets on non-waterfall side or end of island
- Position low—8-12 inches above floor—less visually prominent
- Paint outlet cover matching cabinetry color—camouflage installation
- Advantages: Lower cost than pop-ups, simple installation, easy future access
- Disadvantages: Visible from some angles, limits furniture placement
- Cost: $75-150 per outlet location
Solution 3: End-Mount with Toe-Kick Access (Creative Solution)
- Install outlet in island end toe-kick area
- Angled position allows plug access from floor level
- Completely hidden from normal viewing angles
- Limitation: Only works for specific appliances—mixers, slow cookers on counter above
- Inspector acceptance: Verify approval before installation—some jurisdictions require counter-height access
Range Hood Make-Up Air: Preventing Furnace Backdrafting
Stevensville's 1990s ranch homes with modern energy-efficient windows and insulation create tight building envelopes that require make-up air systems when powerful range hoods (400+ CFM) exhaust large volumes—otherwise negative pressure backdrafts furnaces pulling carbon monoxide into living spaces.
The tight-home ventilation problem:
- Modern efficiency: 1990s+ homes sealed against air infiltration
- Range hood exhaust: 600-1,200 CFM hoods popular for serious cooking
- Pressure imbalance: Exhaust removes air faster than infiltration can replace
- Negative pressure: House interior pressure drops below exterior
- Backdrafting risk: Negative pressure reverses furnace chimney draft
- Carbon monoxide: Furnace exhaust enters home instead of venting outside
- Deadly hazard: CO poisoning causes death at 400+ PPM exposure
When Lincoln Township requires make-up air:
- MRC R303.8: Make-up air required when kitchen exhaust exceeds 400 CFM
- Tight construction: Homes built 1990s+ typically qualify as tight
- Combustion appliances: Gas furnace, gas water heater present in home
- Inspector enforcement: Building inspector verifies make-up air before final approval
WTS II Contracting's make-up air solutions for ranch homes:
Solution 1: Passive Make-Up Air Duct
- 6-8 inch duct from exterior directly to kitchen
- Motorized damper interlocked with range hood—opens only when hood operates
- Allows outdoor air to enter balancing exhaust
- Cost: $800-1,500 installed
- Drawback: Brings cold winter air directly into kitchen—uncomfortable in Michigan
Solution 2: Tempered Make-Up Air System
- Make-up air passes through inline electric heater before entering home
- Heater warms incoming air to 60-70°F—comfortable operation
- Interlocked with range hood—operates only when needed
- Thermostat prevents overheating in summer
- Cost: $2,000-4,000 installed depending on capacity
- Operating cost: Additional $10-30/month electric during hood operation
Solution 3: Lower-CFM Hood (Avoids Requirement)
- Select range hood under 400 CFM—below code threshold
- No make-up air required—eliminates $2,000-4,000 cost
- Trade-off: Less ventilation capacity for heavy cooking
- Adequate for: Most home cooking—400 CFM sufficient unless commercial-style range
Testing and Verification:
- Combustion safety test required by inspector
- Backdraft test performed with all exhaust fans operating
- Carbon monoxide monitor near furnace verifies no CO spillage
- Must pass safety tests before final certificate of occupancy issued
High-Performance Materials for Stevensville Family Kitchens
We specify materials engineered for active families with children, pets, and daily use:
Countertops - Quartz (Kid-Proof Performance)
- Non-porous surface: Quartz engineered stone completely impervious to staining. Resists juice spills, pasta sauce, red wine, coffee—wipe clean with soap and water. Critical for families where kitchen doubles as homework station and art project zone.
- Scratch resistance: Very hard surface resists scratches from dropped utensils, cutting boards dragged across counter, keys and phones. Not indestructible but far more durable than marble or granite.
- Heat tolerance: Moderate heat resistance—can withstand brief contact with hot pans though trivets recommended. More resilient than laminate which melts from hot pans.
- Zero maintenance: Never requires sealing—huge advantage over granite's annual sealing requirement. Busy families don't have time for countertop maintenance schedules.
- Consistent appearance: Engineered consistency means slabs match—no natural variation surprises. Select exact color/pattern for your design.
- Popular colors: White marble-look (Calacatta, Carrara) for bright kitchens, gray tones (concrete-look) for modern aesthetics, warm neutrals (taupe, beige) for traditional styles.
- Cost: $65-110 per square foot installed—mid-range investment providing 30-50 year lifespan.
Cabinets - Prefinished Construction
- Factory-finished maple: Natural wood cabinets with durable catalyzed conversion varnish finish. Factory spray booth produces finish harder and more durable than site-applied options. Resists moisture, food stains, daily wear. $110-180 per linear foot.
- Painted finish: Prefinished painted cabinets—white, gray, navy most popular. Factory application produces smooth, consistent finish without brush marks. Easier to clean than natural wood—shows fewer fingerprints and smudges. $120-200 per linear foot.
- Construction specification: 3/4-inch plywood box construction (never particle board). Dovetail drawer boxes with full-extension soft-close undermount slides—handles 75-100 pound loads. Concealed European hinges with soft-close—prevents slamming that damages cabinets over time.
- Door style: Shaker most popular—clean lines appropriate for transitional and modern farmhouse aesthetics popular in Stevensville. Flat-panel contemporary option for modern designs.
- Hardware: Brushed nickel or matte black pulls and knobs—durable finishes resist tarnishing and wear from repeated handling.
Flooring - Luxury Vinyl Plank (Slab-Home Solution)
- 100% waterproof core: WPC (wood-plastic composite) or SPC (stone-plastic composite) core completely impervious to water damage. Critical for Stevensville slab homes where subfloor is concrete—any leak sits on waterproof surface without penetrating flooring. Dishwasher leaks, refrigerator water line failures cause zero floor damage.
- Warmth on concrete: Slightly cushioned feel—more comfortable than tile on cold slab foundations. Kids playing on floor, pets lying down—warmer surface than porcelain. Can add cork underlayment for additional cushioning and sound dampening.
- Realistic wood appearance: High-definition printing and embossed texture create authentic hardwood look. Wide planks (7-9 inches) mimic real hardwood. Color options: Gray-tone oaks (trendy), warm browns (traditional), whitewashed (beach/coastal).
- Scratch resistance: Wear layer protects against dog claws, dropped utensils, chair scraping. 12-20 mil wear layer standard—thicker = more durable. Choose 20 mil for active families with large dogs.
- Easy installation: Click-lock floating floor installs over existing flooring in many cases. Can install directly on concrete slab with vapor barrier. DIY-friendly but professional installation recommended for warranty coverage.
- Maintenance: Sweep and damp mop—no special cleaners required. Resists staining from spills. No refinishing ever needed unlike hardwood.
- Cost: $5-9 per square foot installed—economical choice providing 15-25 year lifespan.
- Why not hardwood: Real hardwood on slab requires glue-down installation ($8-14/sq ft). Vulnerable to water damage from appliance leaks. For Stevensville slab homes, LVP provides better performance at lower cost.
Backsplash - Subway Tile (Classic and Practical)
- 3x6 white subway tile: Timeless classic appropriate for any design style. Brick-pattern layout most popular. Bright surface reflects light—makes kitchens feel larger. Easy to clean—smooth glazed surface wipes clean.
- Grout selection: Light gray grout (versus white) hides staining from cooking grease and food splatter. Epoxy grout upgrade ($3-5/sq ft additional) provides stain-proof, waterproof surface—never requires sealing.
- Alternative patterns: Herringbone or vertical stack for modern look. Colored tiles (gray, blue, green) for accent. Glass tile for extra sparkle and easy cleaning.
- Height: Full height (to bottom of upper cabinets) standard—typically 18 inches. Higher backsplash behind range—24-30 inches for grease protection.
- Cost: $12-20 per square foot installed for subway tile, $15-25 for specialty patterns or glass tile.
Sink and Faucet - Durability Focus
- Undermount stainless steel sink: 16 or 18-gauge stainless—thicker = quieter and more durable. Undermount installation allows easy countertop cleanup—wipe crumbs directly into sink. Soundproofing pads on underside reduce water noise. $200-500 depending on size and gauge.
- Farmhouse apron sink (alternative): Fireclay or cast iron—classic aesthetic appropriate for farmhouse and traditional styles. Deep basin accommodates large pots. $400-1,200 depending on material and size.
- Pull-down faucet: Sprayer built into faucet head—extends on hose for filling large pots and cleaning sink. Magnetic docking keeps sprayer secure. Dual-function spray—aerated stream or powerful spray. Brands: Kohler, Moen, Delta—proven reliability. $150-400 for quality residential models.
Frequently Asked Questions: Kitchen Remodeling in Stevensville, MI
Do I need a permit to move my kitchen sink in Lincoln Township?
Yes, moving drains requires a plumbing permit and inspection—Lincoln Charter Township enforces Michigan Plumbing Code for all drain relocations including kitchen sink moves. Permit requirements include: (1) Plumbing permit application showing existing drain location and proposed new location, (2) Rough-in inspection—inspector examines drain line installation, slope verification (minimum 1/4 inch per foot), proper venting provision (loop vent or AAV for island sinks), and connection methods before covering work, (3) Pressure/water test—may require drain system testing to verify no leaks and proper flow, (4) Final inspection—inspector verifies completed installation meets code after finish work. Island sink specifics: Moving sink to island location requires specialized venting (loop vent or air admittance valve) that inspector must approve. Standard vertical vent stacks impossible on islands—improper venting causes slow drains and sewer gas entry. Slab foundation homes: Moving sink on slab-on-grade foundation (most Stevensville ranch homes) requires concrete saw-cutting to access drain lines cast in slab. This significantly increases complexity and cost—adding $3,000-5,000 to project for concrete cutting, excavation, new drain installation, inspection, and concrete restoration. Why permits matter: Unpermitted plumbing discovered during home sale kills transactions—buyers walk away or demand corrections. Insurance companies may deny water damage claims related to unpermitted work. Building inspectors can issue stop-work orders requiring expensive tear-out and reconstruction.
How much does it cost to move a kitchen island on a concrete slab?
It adds $3,000–$5,000 to the project due to concrete cutting and excavation—significantly more expensive than homes with accessible crawlspaces or basements where same work costs $300-600. Slab plumbing modification breakdown: (1) Concrete cutting ($800-1,200)—diamond blade wet-cutting saw cuts 12-18 inch wide trench from island location to existing drain connection point. Typical run 8-12 feet depending on island placement. Wet cutting minimizes dust but requires cleanup, (2) Excavation and drain installation ($1,200-2,000)—jackhammer broken concrete from trench, excavate soil beneath slab creating proper depth for drain line, install 2-inch ABS/PVC drain maintaining 1/4 inch per foot slope, connect to existing drain system with proper fittings, install venting provision (loop vent or AAV stub), (3) Inspection ($150-250)—Lincoln Township inspector examines drain installation before backfill. Verifies slope, connection methods, venting provision. Cannot proceed until inspection passes, (4) Backfill and restoration ($800-1,500)—backfill trench with compacted crushed stone/sand, pour new concrete over trench (minimum 4 inches thick), smooth finish matching existing slab, cure 24-48 hours before flooring installation. Why cost is higher than crawlspace homes: Crawlspace homes allow running new drains beneath floor—no concrete cutting required. Same island drain installation costs $300-600 in crawlspace home. Alternative to reduce costs: Design island without sink (eliminates plumbing cost entirely while maintaining seating and storage benefits), keep sink at original wall location where drain already exists, accept above-slab drainage with raised platform (unattractive but functional).
Can I remove the wall between my kitchen and living room?
In truss-built ranch homes, yes, but it often requires a structural beam—Stevensville's 1970s-1990s ranch homes predominantly use prefabricated roof trusses where interior walls frequently provide bearing support. Determining if wall is load-bearing: (1) Examine attic—if roof trusses bear on wall top plate, wall is load-bearing. Look for truss members resting directly on wall, (2) Check bearing point pattern—trusses often bear on walls 10-12 feet from exterior walls, not just at perimeter, (3) Perpendicular to trusses—walls running perpendicular to truss span direction most likely load-bearing, (4) Professional assessment—structural engineer definitively identifies load paths ($500-800 for evaluation). Proper removal process: Calculate loads wall carries (roof weight, snow load 40-50 PSF in Michigan, ceiling materials). Design LVL beam sized to carry loads across span—typically 3.5" x 11.25" to 14" depth for 12-16 foot openings. Install temporary support walls on both sides before removing any framing—carries load during beam installation. Remove wall and install flush-mount beam recessed into ceiling plane—creates seamless appearance with no exposed beam. Connect trusses to beam with Simpson joist hangers—ensures proper load transfer. Box beam with drywall creating continuous ceiling—structurally sound and visually seamless. Cost for ranch open concept: 12-14 foot opening: $4,000-6,500 (includes engineering, beam, installation, drywall finishing), 16-18 foot opening: $6,000-9,000 (larger beam, possible steel, professional engineer involvement). Non-load-bearing walls: If wall is not load-bearing (parallel to trusses, no bearing above), removal costs only $500-1,500 for demo and patching—no beam required.
Kitchen Remodeling in Nearby Berrien County Communities
WTS II Contracting also serves surrounding communities. Learn about our kitchen remodeling services in: